![]() As a general rule, hollow walls like drywall and paneling will hold less weight than solid walls like concrete and some plasters using the same anchor. ![]() Be sure anchors are installed correctly and firmly for full benefit. The load capacities for the wall anchors in these charts are approximate. Use one that will safely support the weight of the object to be suspended. These anchors come in three basic types: sleeve, toggle, and expansion. Even if we could just fasten it back into place that would be okay.This page contains pictures, descriptions, and load ratings for the most commonly available wall anchors for drywall, plaster, and masonry, including solid and hollow walls and ceilings. We were originally thinking to drywall over it, but it doesn't appear that there will be anything to affix strapping to. I assumed the skin on these panels would be aluminum, but one person who came over and tapped on it with his fingernails seems to think that, despite the places where it is corroding a bit, they might actually be plastic. but they don't seem to.Īny thoughts on what I could do here, based on a knowledge of what I am working with and how these things fit together? It looks like they should just click together. It is not leaking, but we are getting what appears to be a brown styrofoam kind of dust coming down from it. One of the panels - at the seam - seems to be becoming disconnected from the adjacent panel. ![]() We recently had the roof shingled over a plywood base, but the issue I am having precedes that. (though it had leaked for a short while between where it meets the house) The roof panels are about 4" thick and the ceiling has - to my knowledge - never leaked along the seams. It is a 4-season modular style sunroom made up of four-foot panels and is, in total, roughly 20 x 12 with windows along the three sides. Our sunroom is about 20 years old here in Southern Ontario, Canada. A hardware store salesperson told me to use the anchors that are beige and drill themselves into the wall that you then screw into but I don't see how that kind would ever be able to cut into these walls. ![]() Most things will be 10-20 lbs but I do have a 35lb wood framed mirror that we'd like to put up again in this new place. So if any of you with more expertise than me could help me out with identifying the walls and then what my anchor options are. The drill holes were super clean, the wall feels about an inch thick and hollow behind. I can also tell you these walls are all original from 1931 if that helps place the material. Sadly I don't know a lot about this, but I can tell you with the few holes I've made for light duty things like I said (a small mirror, a little kitchen shelf) the walls are really sturdy, they don't crumble like that cardboard-y drywall in modern apartments. ![]() Some other holes where cables pass were more telling. I saw online that peeking behind a light switch could be useful but you'll see in the photos that it was hard to see much. I need to start putting things up on the walls in our new apartment we've moved to and a couple of light duty things were easy enough but I have to put up some shelves and things now that are 20 pounds and more and I feel like I need to have a better sense of what these walls are made of. ![]()
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